Arancini al nero di seppia

AFTER VARIOUS LEISURE AND WORKING trips to Sicily over the course of the last two decades, I somehow became obsessed with finding the best arancini in the biggest island of the Mediterranean. After exploring almost all the corners of the island, from places such as Agrigento, Caltanissetta, Mazara del Vallo, many pizzerias of Catania and Palermo, the discovery occurred in a small family business located on a narrow street that leads to a beautiful view of the Ionian Sea in the heart of Ortygia, a tiny island which is the historical centre of Siracusa. It is important to highlight that while the most common arancini are usually stuffed with ragù, small pieces of ham, or spinach and ricotta, arancini al nero di seppia, while it is still a Sicilian fast-food, could be considered a rarity food that is not common to find in the manifold places that sell arancini everywhere in Sicily. 

One of the perks of having an arancini at this exact eatery is its privileged location that allows you to either stand in front of the ocean or seat on one of the benches that rest outside the local. The silky, bright, and mirror-like consistency of the ink not only reflects the sunlight as you carefully observe the cuttlefish slices transporting you to a mythological time in which the nymph Arethusa was often seen dancing over the sea among dolphins. As you begin tasting the arancini, the soft, yet rubbery texture of the cuttlefish, slowly melting with the delicious and meandering flavor of the black ink, emphasizes the importance of the way the rice was cooked and later deep-fried. I have tried so many arancini that due to the overcooking and over deep-frying of the rice, despite their delicious flavor of the stuffing, made them collapse or crumble down between my hands. That is what the rice maker of this family business, nonetheless the matriarch of the family, has mastered to the point that even the common ragù arancini ranks way above others I’ve tried in other places recommended by Sicilian friends. 

Italian cuisine, unlike other Mediterranean gastronomical traditions, has been defined by simplicity in the confection of the recipes, a deserved pride in the cooking process, and, above anything else, the joy of slowly tasting each of the flavors that the Earth has gifted to us, mere humans walking on the blue planet. I can assure you that Pizzeria Da Mario in Ortygia won’t disappoint neither those afraid of trying new flavors. So, if you find yourself at the corner of Via Serafino and Via Roma, don’t overlook the apparent austere facade of Pizzeria Da Mario, inside you’ll find the best arancini al nero di seppia that both Sicily and Siracusa can offer to their visitors. 

KNOW BEFORE YOU GO

Just walk along Ortygia's Lungomare until you find Via Roma, it is a popular spot because right in that intersection there is a small viewpoint where you can take awesome photographs of the coastline and the old, now in ruins, Chiesa dello Spirito Santo. If you do dare to try an arancini at Pizzeria Da Mario, let them know that Franco, "il miglior fabbro," send you their way (they may remind me as the guy that after tasting their arancini al nero di seppia began dancing and singing "Santa Lucia"). 

ABOUT ME

I'm an Interdisciplinary Research Associate at the University of Pittsburgh. Formerly, I was an Assistant Professor of Latinx Cultural Studies at the University of Denver (I've also taught at High Point University, The Italian Academy in Syracuse (Sicily), and UNC-Chapel Hill). I'm the author of more than twenty books of fiction, non-fiction, and academic studies. I have traveled to more than forty countries in four continents and lived in various megacities. My favorite places and dishes can be found in Sicily, Sardinia, and Morocco. My non-academic work has appeared in Public Books, JSTOR Daily, Forum Nepantla, E-International Relations, Atlas Obscura, among other publications.